Part I in a series. Also see: Part II, Birding Sites | Part III, Links
The Eastern Shore of Virginia is a critical staging area for migratory birds along the mid-Atlantic flyway. Each fall, favorable wind conditions funnel migratory birds down the DelMarVa Peninsula where they rest and refuel on its largely undeveloped coastline.
Approaching The Eastern Shore
“You don’t see this everyday,” I said while looking through the spotting scope mounted at a wildlife refuge observatory on the Eastern Shore of Virginia.
Rumbling clouds and high winds made it a dramatic and dreary day. My party and I had just crossed the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-tunnel, a 17-mile tube, one of Seven Engineering Wonders of the Modern World, that dips into the lower Chesapeake Bay as it connects Virginia’s mainland to its Eastern Shore.
A destination in itself, the bridge-tunnel is a refuge for birds such as American White Pelicans, Gannets, and Harlequin Ducks which gather around the man-made islands and trestles that secure the structure.
But on this day, birds had been scarce and violent waves swelled the sea into a bubbly frappé. A few brave gulls became instruments of the wind, muscling themselves toward the heavens before being slammed back down to the sea.
Eastern Shore of Virginia National Wildlife Refuge
The Eastern Shore of Virginia is a narrow peninsula that separates Chesapeake Bay from the Atlantic Ocean and contains the longest stretch of undeveloped coast on the eastern seaboard. On the seaside, a ribbon of undeveloped barrier islands protects wide expanses of tidal salt marshes, vast tidal mud flats, and thriving fish and shellfish populations. On the bayside, countless estuaries and tidal mudflats dot the shoreline. And because much of the peninsula is owned by government agencies or conservation groups, development is limited and wildlife thrive here.
The Shore’s mosaic of habitats and its location along the mid-Atlantic flyway make it a critical stopover site for migrating birds.
A quick right off the main drag had taken us to the Visitor Center at the Eastern Shore of Virginia National Wildlife Refuge, a large post-and-beam hall with interpretive exhibits that explain the relationship of migratory birds to the Eastern Shore.
Glad to be out of the bitter cold, I walked through the refuge’s exhibit hall and watched short videos that depict birds in the Shore’s four main habitats: uplands, tidal mud flats, barrier islands, and of course, the Chesapeake Bay.
I stood in front of a large picture window in the bird observatory. The observatory overlooked several bird feeders and a freshwater pond in the distance. I watched Tufted Titmice and Northern Cardinals near the feeders when a biologist in my party said “Whoa!”
An Osprey was fast approaching the pond about 50 meters away. Seeing an Osprey make a fresh kill is never dull so our attention was rapt. But instead of whirling down to nab a fish in its talons, the raptor landed in the pond. With fully one-third of its body submersed in the frigid water, the bird sat upright facing the gusty winds, its feathers rippling in the wind.
As if the pond was possessed by riparian demons, undulating waves rolled across its surface and crashed against the bird’s chest. I could barely stand outdoors in the bitter wind, but somehow this husk of hollow bones covered with a puff of feathers could stand in frigid water and withstand the fury of wind and waves.
From this vulnerable position, the Osprey’s sharp yellow eyes glanced over its left shoulder, then its right. Satisfied it was momentarily safe, the Osprey started bathing. Through the spotting scope, I observed as the raptor rolled its shoulders forward and lowered its head into the pond. It then stretched its neck out, then up, and stood upright to let the water dribble over its head and down its back. The Osprey shook his shoulders and ruffled his feathers, reveling in the pond’s cold, pulsing current.
Osprey bathing in pond at Eastern Shore of Virginia National Wildlife Refuge. Click to watch.
The Osprey performed this dip, shiver, and shake maneuver at least three more times, giving me enough time to grab my camera and start filming. Even as it bathed, the Osprey’s fluid movements held power and grace. This was one of those wild moments and I was lucky to capture it on video. (Hint: some browswers have difficulty reading my photo gallery page on Mobile Me. If this happens to you, send me an email and let me know what OS and browser you use so I can troubleshoot.)
I left the Visitor Center ready to see more birds…
© Laura Kammermeier. All rights reserved.
Related posts:
- Birding Guide: Eastern Shore of Virginia (Part III: Links) The Eastern Shore of Virginia contains the longest stretch of undeveloped coast on the eastern seaboard. Here's a list of the best natural areas on...
- Birding Guide: Eastern Shore of Virginia (Pt II, Birding Sites) While spring migration is noteworthy on the Eastern Shore of Virginia, the fall migration is not-to-miss. Like clockwork, favorable wind currents push migrating birds through...
- Are You Joining The Biggest Week in American Birding? The Biggest Week in American Birding takes place during the peak of spring migration from May 6 – 16, 2010 at Magee Marsh/Crane Creek/Ottawa National...
{ 3 comments… read them below or add one }
Very nice post. When would you say would be the best time to visit the DelMarva area either for the best diversity of species available?
Andrew aka @birdingdude,
Speaking for the Eastern Shore of VA, the best time to go for diversity and numbers is fall. I hear that spring is good, but that numbers are greater in fall. Folks at the DelMarVa Ornithological Society (http://www.dosbirds.org/) may have news on other areas in the region.
And BTW, thanks for the RT on Twitter!
I live on the Eastern Shore of Virginia and birding here is magnificent. Thanks Laura for capturing so well our winged-wonders!